An Off Trail Adventure

I used to think "Off Trail Adventure" was a rather ambitious title for a Sunday rambling group, but after a recent expedition to Vazra Waterfalls I'm not so sure anymore.

While I've always been keen on walking I've never been a "group walker", prefering the tranquility of my own company as well as the ability to stop or go as I pleased rather than having to fit in with the needs of others. However I soon found that walking in India is very different from walking in Britain - basically there are no footpath signs and no Ordinance Survey maps to show the trails. Walking in the countryside, away from the beaches and a few well trodden headlands was virtually impossible. Then last year I discovered that there were several "trekking groups" in Goa.

"Off Trail adventures" is my favourite, and its organised and led by two amazing ladies - Bianca and Theresa.

Peak time for trekking in Goa is during monsoon, which seems a bit odd coming from UK and always hoping for a fine day when a walk is planned. In Goa waterfalls are the most popular destination for a hike, and during the dry   season (November to June) many of the falls become dry or mere trickles. In the monsoon the same falls become torrents tumbling into deep pools, beautiful to watch, and fun to jump into

A private bus is provided, at a cost of around 300rps per person. It picks up in the main towns, and the journey to the start of the trek can take a couple of hours (including a chai stop)  Most of the participants are in their 20's or 30's and for many trekking in the countryside is a totally new experience. .Even when its not raining there is little chance of getting home dry as a trek to a waterfall will usually involve several crossings of the rivers which lead from it. The trek to Vazra had three such crossings, where strong currents made it necessary to use ropes to prevent being swept away, then when we seemed to be almost there the ropes were out again to help with a steep scramble up to a point where the fall was within sight and sound.

Still not wet enough? Then just get into the water fully clothed - no need to carry swimsuit or a towel, there's plenty of time to dry off on the way back to the bus.

A Day in Panaji, Goa

Covered pavement oposite Azad Maidan

As I said before, I always enjoy a day out in Panjim.  Some things are very familiar, and never seem to change. Crossing the road from the ferry is always difficult, cobblers and fruit venders are always sitting on the covered pavement. opposite Azad Maidan. On the other hand, if I wander around onto less familiar streets I can usually find something I've never seen before.

As I was on a quest to find sticky envelopes to fit the Greeting Cards I make I headed along MG Road, crossed Caculo Circle and continued into St Inez, where my friend Sarah had told me there was a Wedding Stationary shop which might be able to produce my envelopes. She told me it was called David Co, and was near St Inez Church. That seemed quite a good description, but I must have asked at 20 different shops along the street and no-one had heard of it. However, during my ramble I did find a different printer, who claimed to have ready made envelopes  of  my required size, and seemed confident that he could add adhesive tape - he would show me one if I returned after 2:30. Surprised and pleased I walked back towards the town with renewed enthusiasm for my project.

 Hot, thirsty an hungry I needed a break, so squeezed into a busy lunchtime restaurant called Sarovar, which I had never seen before. I got a wonderful "rice plate" lunch for 35 rupees.As I was leaving I decided to ask one last time for David Co, and I was told that it was just a few metres away, along a side street. Unfortunately it had already close, and according to a passer by, not just for the afternoon, but for the rest of the day. The main office was in Margao and this little branch only opened in the morning. Never mind, at least now I knew where it was now.I would come again in the morning.



Ganesh idol covered entirely with beads

 With still an hour to pass before returning for my sample envelope I wandered into Dr D V Road and stumbled upon the Mahalaxmi Temple. Although it's claimed to be the most famous Hindu Temple in Panaji I had never found it before. A large pavillion was attracting a lot of people, so leaving my sandals in the pile around the entrance I went inside. There on a beach, with a rat, sat a huge Ganesh. It was covered entirely with strings of beads (and so was the rat)  It had been constructed by a local Boys Club for Ganesh Chaturthi,and thankfully had been excused from immersion - the fate of most Ganesh idols at this time of the year. In the main temple building a feast was taking place - people stood in line and metal plates and cups were being rinsed under an outdoor tap. I was invited to eat, but was able to say in all honesty that I had already taken lunch and couldnt possibly eat another thing.

Outside on the street again I was soon enthralled by another new scene - the Mayfair Hotel with its neat row of traditional shell windows and colourful wrought iron lamps, then a few metres further on I found one of Panajis most modern Stores - "Big G". Glossy, glitzy, strongly air-conditioned - and empty of people, a strange contrast from the bustling street and temple. Dr D V Road opened into Church Square, and I was on familiar ground, and as always I was taken aback by the dazzling white facade of the Panjim's Big Church - properly known as the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception standing above the square and gardens.

Big G Store

Panjim Church

Mango ice cream and a lime soda at my old favourite restaurant, Kamat, then at 3 o'clock I took a two wheeler taxi back to St Inez to collect my envelope sample.It was there and it looked fine, but the boss was no longer there to discuss prices - never mind, I could come back another day. The motorcycle pilot dropped me by the ferry and I was on my way home, happy that I had made some unexpected progress in the sticky envelope hunt, seen some new sites, and found a new favourite restaurant in Panjim.

Journey to Panjim

I always enjoy a trip to Panjim - or Panaji, as I think we are supposed to call it now (Panjim being the Portuguese corruption of the original name)

It is just 12 kms from Candolim, and for those without a scooter or a car (me) it involves a bus and a ferry ride, takes about 45 minutes to an hour (depending on how the connection works out) and costs 10 rupees. Its best to avoid the "rush hours" if you can, when local poeple are trying to get to and from work.(around 8:30 to 9:30am and 5:30 to 6:30pm) I used to set out early, and reach Panjim before the morning crowd, but then I found that most  major shops and businesses didn't open until 10am, or later, so now I wait till later too - though that can make it a rush to get round several places before they close for lunch and siesta, which can last until 4pm. Although many Panjim-ites might not like the Portuguese name, they still cling to their Mediterranean business hours.

Sri Ganesh arrives at the "ice factory" - my bus stop



No Smoking or Spitting on board Sri Ganesh

 Anyway, I decided to visit Panaji yesterday to resume my quest for a reliable supplier of sticky envelopes for use with my greeting cards. Getting hold of envelopes which can be sealed without the need to purchase separate glue or tape does not sound as though it should be difficult, however, India has a long tradition of the glue pot and brush when it comes to mail, but thats another story. I often travel by "Rocket" when I go to town, but yesterday the first bus to arrive was "Sri Ganesh", and I was pleased to see the front of the bus well decorated by marigold garlands and a little shrine to Ganesh, displaying two freshly picked hibiscus flowers. Lord Ganesh should be happy enough with that, so a safe journey ahead.

  Crossing a bridge over the river heading out of Candolim a man stood up by the open door, bowed his head then tossed out a garland of yellow marigolds - more good luck -  its just a shame he didn't take the flowers out of the plastic carrier bag before he threw them into the water.  Later as the bus follows the banks of the Mandovi River there is a lot of evidence of offerings made complete with their plastic wrappers. Never mind - its a lovely day, the sun is shining, no point in worrying about such things. When the bus stops at Betim many people get off, because although there is now a modern bridge spanning the Mandovi a little further on, the ferry takes pedestrians and two wheelers straight to the heart of the city - and its free.

Queue for the Betim to Panaji ferry boat

The ferry leaves just as the bus arrives and there is only one in service now so it will be at least 10 minutes before its back, but never mind - there's a newspaper shop, and a cake shop, cold drinks and snacks, and even a sstall selling useful kitchen items to browse through while you wait. A large crowd of two-wheelers soon gathers and as always blocks the way of those trying to disembark when the ferry docks. As always chaos reigns, but everyone eventually gets off, and on, and I've never seen an arguement or fight develop.

Quickly the ferry is on its way again, making its customary waltz like turn before it reaches the middle of the river, so that its single vehicle ramp is facing forwards again. We dodge a couple of heavily laden iron-ore barges coming down the river, and another, much higher in the water travelling upstream. A final manouvre round one of the Casino Ships and we are there - and chaos reigns again. I really hope this little routine never changes while I am living in Goa!