Journey to Panjim

I always enjoy a trip to Panjim - or Panaji, as I think we are supposed to call it now (Panjim being the Portuguese corruption of the original name)

It is just 12 kms from Candolim, and for those without a scooter or a car (me) it involves a bus and a ferry ride, takes about 45 minutes to an hour (depending on how the connection works out) and costs 10 rupees. Its best to avoid the "rush hours" if you can, when local poeple are trying to get to and from work.(around 8:30 to 9:30am and 5:30 to 6:30pm) I used to set out early, and reach Panjim before the morning crowd, but then I found that most  major shops and businesses didn't open until 10am, or later, so now I wait till later too - though that can make it a rush to get round several places before they close for lunch and siesta, which can last until 4pm. Although many Panjim-ites might not like the Portuguese name, they still cling to their Mediterranean business hours.

Sri Ganesh arrives at the "ice factory" - my bus stop



No Smoking or Spitting on board Sri Ganesh

 Anyway, I decided to visit Panaji yesterday to resume my quest for a reliable supplier of sticky envelopes for use with my greeting cards. Getting hold of envelopes which can be sealed without the need to purchase separate glue or tape does not sound as though it should be difficult, however, India has a long tradition of the glue pot and brush when it comes to mail, but thats another story. I often travel by "Rocket" when I go to town, but yesterday the first bus to arrive was "Sri Ganesh", and I was pleased to see the front of the bus well decorated by marigold garlands and a little shrine to Ganesh, displaying two freshly picked hibiscus flowers. Lord Ganesh should be happy enough with that, so a safe journey ahead.

  Crossing a bridge over the river heading out of Candolim a man stood up by the open door, bowed his head then tossed out a garland of yellow marigolds - more good luck -  its just a shame he didn't take the flowers out of the plastic carrier bag before he threw them into the water.  Later as the bus follows the banks of the Mandovi River there is a lot of evidence of offerings made complete with their plastic wrappers. Never mind - its a lovely day, the sun is shining, no point in worrying about such things. When the bus stops at Betim many people get off, because although there is now a modern bridge spanning the Mandovi a little further on, the ferry takes pedestrians and two wheelers straight to the heart of the city - and its free.

Queue for the Betim to Panaji ferry boat

The ferry leaves just as the bus arrives and there is only one in service now so it will be at least 10 minutes before its back, but never mind - there's a newspaper shop, and a cake shop, cold drinks and snacks, and even a sstall selling useful kitchen items to browse through while you wait. A large crowd of two-wheelers soon gathers and as always blocks the way of those trying to disembark when the ferry docks. As always chaos reigns, but everyone eventually gets off, and on, and I've never seen an arguement or fight develop.

Quickly the ferry is on its way again, making its customary waltz like turn before it reaches the middle of the river, so that its single vehicle ramp is facing forwards again. We dodge a couple of heavily laden iron-ore barges coming down the river, and another, much higher in the water travelling upstream. A final manouvre round one of the Casino Ships and we are there - and chaos reigns again. I really hope this little routine never changes while I am living in Goa!